Your dog foster resource guide

Please follow this protocol immediately if your foster pet bites you or any other person.

Immediate Steps

1. Remove the foster pet to a safe environment (crate or enclosed space) that prevents further injury and provides a calm space for the animal.
2. Report the incident immediately to the Foster Team at foster@pvastx.org. For emergencies or immediate assistance, call or text 956-330-3206.
3. Your report should include a detailed description of what happened and photos of any injuries (a follow-up email is fine for photos).
4. PVAS will determine the pet's future placement and any needed behavior modification or training.

If the Bite Caused an Injury

1. Call 911 if injuries are life-threatening or severe (excessive bleeding, broken bones, person is in shock or unconscious).
2. Wash bite and scratch wounds with soap and water immediately. If there is no break in the skin, no further action is required. If there is a break in the skin, stop any bleeding with pressure and seek professional medical care as soon as possible.
3. The Foster Team will verify the pet's rabies vaccination status and provide proof as needed. Note: per Texas law, pets under 3 months of age will not have been vaccinated for rabies.
4. If the bite broke the skin, a 10-day quarantine may be required. This can usually happen in the foster home. If the pet is given a clean bill of health after 10 days, the rabies virus could not have been transmitted at the time of the bite.

Questions or emergencies: foster@pvastx.org · Call or text 956-330-3206

Use this guide to determine when and how to contact the Foster Team. The level of urgency determines who to contact and how fast.

Red Flags — Email the Foster Team

These are concerning but not immediately life-threatening. Email foster@pvastx.org:

• Decrease in appetite or missing a meal
• Diarrhea not improving within 72 hours
• Very watery or explosive diarrhea (even once)
• Bloody diarrhea
• Vomiting (unless excessive — see emergencies below)
• Losing interest in playing with littermates
• Sudden weight loss

Emergencies — Call or Text Immediately

Business hours (Mon–Sun, 9am–7pm): Call or text 956-330-3206

Outside business hours: Leave a voicemail or text 956-330-3206 AND email foster@pvastx.org

Emergency contact: 956-330-3206 (call or text) · foster@pvastx.org

Transitions are difficult for everyone — you, your family, your pets, and most of all the new dog. Shelters are stressful environments that can cause dogs to act in ways they normally wouldn't. Even a dog coming from another foster home needs time to adjust to your home specifically.

The first 2 weeks are the most critical. Give your dog time to decompress before drawing conclusions about their personality or behavior.

Common Behaviors During Transition

• House training accidents — even perfectly house-trained dogs may have accidents in a new home. Don't let your dog roam unsupervised until you've confirmed they've got it down in your specific space.
• Separation anxiety — following you everywhere, whining or barking when they can't see you. Use enrichment toys and be patient while they learn they're safe.
• Fear toward people — it's common for a dog to accept some family members but not others. Go slow and allow the dog to warm up to each person at their own pace. It can take weeks.
• Hyperactivity or lethargy — some dogs sleep for days; others can't relax. Both are normal responses to stress. Plenty of exercise and enrichment help.
• Not eating — normal for up to 2 days during de-stressing. Keep offering food. If they've eaten nothing after 2 days or diarrhea persists beyond a few days, contact the team.

Safety Tips for the First Few Weeks

• Doors — new dogs have no bond with you yet and may bolt. Be extra cautious every time you open a door, including car doors.
• Yards — never leave a new dog unattended outside, even with a fence. Some dogs jump, dig, or find other ways out.
• On leash — dogs may dart at noises, animals, or vehicles. Hold the leash tightly at all times. Don't let children walk the dog unless they can physically manage it.
• Gear — keep a lightweight drag leash attached to the collar at all times indoors for the first few weeks. Use a Martingale collar to prevent slipping out on walks.
• Body language — wide eyes, pinned ears, tucked tail, excessive drooling, and lip licking are signs of discomfort. Back off and give space. Let the dog set the pace.

Dos and Don'ts for the First Two Weeks

Do

• Create a quiet, cozy space for your dog to decompress
• Let them sniff you and your home on their own terms
• Take quiet walks and provide exercise and mental stimulation
• Wait at least 2 weeks before introducing them to strangers
• Use tandem walks and supervised interactions before introducing resident pets
• Establish a consistent routine for meals, potty trips, and play
• Keep pets separated during meals and with high-value treats/chews

Don't

• Take your dog to social outings (pet stores, coffee shops, parks)
• Force interactions, hugging, or petting
• Leave your new dog and resident pets unsupervised together
• Expect your dog to be social right away — even with you
• Try to bathe them right away if they're showing fear. Use pet wipes instead.

Questions: foster@pvastx.org · 956-330-3206

Demodectic mange (also called "demodex") is a parasitic skin disease caused by microscopic mites that live in the hair follicles of all healthy dogs. An overgrowth causes mange symptoms. This is the most common form of mange in dogs and is not transmissible to humans.

Causes

Overgrowth typically occurs when a dog's immune system is not fully developed (puppies) or is suppressed (as in shelter stress). It occurs primarily in dogs under 1 year. Adult dogs with demodex are usually immune-compromised.

Because the mite is found on virtually all dogs, exposure of a healthy dog to one with demodex is not dangerous. This differs from sarcoptic mange, which is contagious between dogs.

Symptoms

• Hair loss in patches, usually beginning on the face around the eyes
• Rough, scaly bare skin
• Dogs are usually not itchy unless a secondary bacterial infection develops
• Localized: a few patches. Generalized: spread across much of the skin

Diagnosis

A deep skin scraping examined under a microscope. Usually large numbers of mites are found.

Treatment

An oral medication given once monthly or every 3 months, adjusted by the veterinarian. An antibiotic may be prescribed for secondary bacterial infections. A high-quality diet, stress-free environment, and maturing immune system all contribute to faster healing. Fish oil supplements are beneficial.

Heartworm disease is caused by foot-long worms that live in the heart, lungs, and associated blood vessels. It is extremely common in Texas and on the Gulf Coast. It is only spread through the bite of an infected mosquito — not dog-to-dog. Preventatives are extremely effective.

Contagiousness

Humans: Extremely rare for humans to contract heartworms from a mosquito. Cannot get heartworms from an animal directly.

Other animals: Some wild species (wolves, coyotes, foxes) can contract heartworm, but it is not spread through direct contact with another animal.

How It Spreads

An infected mosquito deposits infective larvae when biting a dog. It takes approximately 6 months for larvae to mature into adult heartworms, which can then live 5–7 years in the dog. Preventatives are extremely effective and as long as your dog is on them, heartworm is extremely unlikely.

Testing

• Given to every dog over 7 months of age at intake, then every 6 months
• Heartworms won't show on a test for 6 months — a dog may test negative at intake but positive at the follow-up

Symptoms

Early stages: few or no symptoms. As the disease progresses:

• Mild persistent cough
• Reluctance to exercise, fatigue after activity
• Decreased appetite, weight loss
• Swollen belly (excess fluid) as disease advances
• Caval syndrome (sudden cardiovascular collapse) in severe cases — labored breathing, pale gums, dark/bloody urine

Fostering a Heartworm-Positive Dog

• Restrict exercise — physical exertion increases the rate at which heartworms cause damage
• Contact the Foster Team if you notice symptoms or signs of heart disease
• If your dog is undergoing treatment, stay in regular contact — it's common for dogs to be uncomfortable after injections
• No decontamination needed indoors or outdoors — heartworm is only spread by mosquitoes

Frequently Asked Questions

My foster is on slow-kill treatment — will they switch to fast-kill after adoption?

No. Slow-kill treatment is instead of fast-kill, not a precursor. Once started, it continues for 6–12 months. We do not typically switch protocols once started.

Should I tell potential adopters about heartworm?

Yes. PVAS relies on fosters to communicate medical needs. Emphasize that heartworm is highly treatable and cannot be given to other dogs or humans.

Questions: foster@pvastx.org · 956-330-3206

Despite its name, ringworm involves no worms. It is a very common fungus that lives everywhere — on animals, people, and in the soil. It is especially common in Texas. The fungus causes a parasitic infection that feeds on keratin, affecting skin and hair. It is contagious but does not affect all people or animals the same way.

Who Is at Risk?

Humans: Small children, the elderly, and immunocompromised individuals are most vulnerable. Healthy adults can get it but it's unlikely and easy to treat. Thoroughly washing hands and changing clothes after handling reduces risk significantly.

Animals: Puppies, seniors, and immunocompromised/stressed animals are most at risk. It is more contagious to and harder to resolve in cats than dogs.

How It Spreads

Most often by skin-to-skin contact, but also transferred via clothes, shoes, carpets, couches, sheets, and blankets.

Prevention

• Keep the pet in an easy-to-clean area (like a bathroom)
• Use bleach when washing any bedding, towels, or blankets the pet has used
• Consider putting the pet in a shirt to reduce surface contact
• Thoroughly wash hands after handling. Wear long sleeves and wash clothes frequently
• If putting the pet on furniture, place a towel underneath and wash the towel
• Vacuum carpets frequently

Symptoms

• Lesions on the head, ears, paws, and forelimbs
• Patchy, crusted circular bald spots that sometimes look red in the center
• In mild cases, just a few broken hairs; in severe cases, spread across the body
• A pet can carry the fungus and show no symptoms at all

Treatment

PVAS uses two main treatments:

• Lime Sulfur Dip — effective but smells terrible. Needs to be diluted. Can stain clothes and hands. Applied twice weekly.
• Terbinafine — oral, once daily, typically for 3 weeks. Used in more severe cases. Cannot be given to young puppies.

Decontamination

Interior: Spray hard surfaces with diluted bleach (1 part bleach to 10 parts water). Wash affected laundry with color-safe bleach. Vacuum carpets frequently and discard vacuum contents.

Exterior: Clean hard outdoor surfaces with diluted bleach. Risk of transmission from grass is very low.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if I get ringworm?

It's unpleasant but not terrible. An over-the-counter topical antifungal medication works well unless you're immunocompromised. Use for at least 2 weeks per product instructions. Many fosters, volunteers, and adopters handle ringworm animals and don't catch it.

What if my personal pet gets ringworm?

The PVAS clinic cannot treat owned animals. See your regular vet.

Are there lasting effects?

Hair may take a while to grow back, but there are no long-term health effects.

Questions: foster@pvastx.org · 956-330-3206

Sarcoptic mange (scabies) is a parasitic skin condition caused by microscopic mites that live just under the skin's surface. Unlike demodectic mange, sarcoptic mange is contagious between animals and can affect humans.

Contagiousness

Humans: Humans can contract sarcoptic mange. Dogs are considered non-contagious 3 days after treatment. PVAS recommends extra precautions in households with children, elderly, or immunocompromised individuals.

Animals: Both domestic and wild animals can contract it. Dogs are non-contagious 3 days after treatment; cats 2 weeks after first dose of Revolution.

How It Spreads

Through direct skin-to-skin contact or indirect contact via towels, bedding, carpets, or furniture.

Prevention

• Quarantine in the home is recommended — keep the dog in an easy-to-clean area like a bathroom
• Wash hands frequently and change clothes after handling
• If your resident dog uses Revolution, Bravecto, or Nexgard for flea prevention, it greatly reduces the risk of infection
• Keep affected animal away from anything that can't be easily cleaned

Symptoms

• Noticeably itchy — significant scratching
• Hair loss
• Lesions or crusty skin

Treatment

• Dogs: Nexgard — one dose. Non-contagious 3 days after treatment.
• Cats: Revolution — topical, 3 doses given 2 weeks apart. Non-contagious 2 weeks after first dose.

Decontamination

Interior: Sarcoptic mites can live about 3 days without a host. Clean with household disinfectants or wash fabrics on the hottest washer/dryer setting. Anything that can't be laundered should be bagged for 3 days or frozen for 12 hours.

Exterior: Clean patio surfaces with household disinfectant. Risk of transmission from grass is very low.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if I start showing symptoms?

See a doctor immediately. Humans can contract mites from animals but they cannot live on human skin for long, and the infection is much less severe except in immunocompromised individuals.

Are there long-lasting effects?

Generally no. Some cosmetic issues (hair loss, scabbing) may linger but no threat to overall health.

Distemper is a common but serious airborne virus affecting unvaccinated dogs. It initially attacks the tonsils and lymph nodes, then spreads to the respiratory, gastrointestinal, urogenital, and/or nervous systems. Distemper is not contagious to humans. It can be treated, though recovery can be lengthy.

How It Spreads

Spread like a cold — through sneezing, coughing, nasal secretions, saliva, shared water bowls, or nose-to-nose contact with unvaccinated dogs. The good news: distemper dies within minutes once dry. If an item is thoroughly dry, it is considered safe.

Not contagious to cats.

Symptoms

• Cough, runny nose, nasal congestion, pneumonia
• Not eating, vomiting, extreme lethargy
• Diarrhea (sometimes bloody)
• Eye discharge, squinting, crust around eyes
• Ear infections, fever
• Hard or flaky nose or paw pads (usually not immediate)
• Seizures, night terrors (usually not immediate)
• Twitching/tics/tremors — the only symptom that may last longer than 2 weeks

Your Responsibilities as a Distemper Foster

• Keep a 10-foot distance between your foster and any dog you're not 100% sure is fully vaccinated
• No community water bowls, dog parks, public places, or visitors with unvaccinated dogs
• Administer all medications without missing a dose — missing even one can cause rebound pneumonia
• Provide nutrition daily; offer a variety of food to maintain appetite
• Pick up feces and remove water bowls outside to prevent spread to wildlife

What Makes a Dog "Fully Vaccinated" Against Distemper?

A dog is considered fully vaccinated if they have received at least 2 DHLPP or DAPP vaccines, one of which was given within the last 3 years and at age 5 months or older, AND the dog is not immunocompromised, not on steroids/prednisone, and does not have cancer or severe disease.

Distemper Watch vs. Confirmed Distemper

Distemper Watch: Dog showing symptoms that may indicate distemper but aren't definitive. Most watch dogs are taking medications and most do not actually have distemper. Eligible for clearance after 14 days with no new or worsening symptoms.

Confirmed Distemper: Symptoms progress, don't resolve, or return. Active treatment begins. Can take months to resolve. Eligible for clearance after 30 days with no new or worsening symptoms.

Decontamination

Distemper doesn't live long in the environment, but be diligent: pick up poop, wash food/water dishes, launder beds and towels, and clean with Lysol or Simple Green. The virus is spread like a cold — close contact matters much more than environment.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I take other dogs after having a distemper dog?

Yes, once the distemper dog is gone — or if the new dog is well vaccinated against distemper (ask us first). Unlike parvo, distemper doesn't persist in the environment for long.

Can this make me or my kids sick?

No. Distemper is not contagious to humans in any form.

Should I limit the dog's activity?

Yes — no strenuous exercise, no time outside on hot days. Rest while we watch them.

Questions: foster@pvastx.org · 956-330-3206

All dogs need daily enrichment — some more than others. Not all ideas will work for every dog, so try a variety and rotate to keep your dog interested.

Crate Time / Rest Time

Kongs: Stuff with a variety of healthy foods. Freeze overnight to make your dog work harder and tire out faster. Use for mealtimes by portioning kibble and mixing with pumpkin or wet food. Some dogs benefit from multiple Kongs for a full meal.

Dinner-sicles: Same concept as a Kong but use a metal food bowl or silicone ice cube tray. Mix kibble with something wet (canned food, pumpkin, low-sodium broth, or water) and freeze overnight. Pop it out in the morning.

Indoor Activities

Food-dispensing toys (Kong Wobbler, Petsafe Magic Mushroom, Starmark Treat-Dispensing Bob) make dogs work for their meals. Best used outside the crate — dogs need room to push them around.

Snuffle mats and Licki Mats — great for mental stimulation. Freeze the Licki Mat to make it last longer. A silicone mini ice cube tray from Target works as a budget alternative.

Mental exercise through training: Teach commands and tricks (sit, down, recall, shake, spin, roll over). Learning is exhausting for dogs in the best way. Also try K9 Nose Work (hiding treats for the dog to sniff out) and targeting games.

Outdoor Enrichment Walks

• Long-line walks — attach a 25-foot leash in a quiet open area and let your dog sniff/run with more freedom
• Training walks — stop at intervals and ask for basic commands (sit, down, shake)
• Scent walks — toss a handful of treats into the grass and let your dog sniff them out

Safe Kong Stuffing Ideas

Layer flavors and change it up so your dog stays motivated. Mix soft and crunchy. Safe options include: kibble, training treats, carrots, celery, peas, blueberries, apples (no seeds), banana, watermelon (seedless), cheese, small pieces of chicken/turkey/beef, eggs, peanut butter (no xylitol), canned pumpkin, cooked sweet potato, cooked squash, cottage cheese, plain Greek yogurt (no xylitol), plain Cheerios, baby food (no onion or garlic).

A properly crate-trained dog sees their crate as a safe place. Done right, it helps with house training, destructive chewing, travel, and minor separation anxiety. The crate is never a punishment.

Selecting a Crate

Just large enough for the dog to stand up and turn around. For puppies, use a divider or stuff a large pillow in the back to prevent them from eliminating in a corner. Plastic and wire crates each have pros and cons — go with what the dog prefers.

The Training Process

Step 1 — Introduce the crate

Place the crate in a high-traffic area. Toss treats near the opening, then just inside, then all the way in. Don't force entry. Leave the door open. Work until the dog enters calmly without nervous body language. This can take minutes or several days.

Step 2 — Feed meals in the crate

Start with the food bowl outside and gradually move it further in over several days. Once the dog is comfortable eating inside, begin closing the door. At first open it immediately when they finish. Gradually increase closed time to 10 minutes. If they whine, wait for a moment of quiet before opening — never open in response to whining.

Step 3 — Build time in the crate

Give a "crate" command, toss a treat inside, close the door. Start with 1–2 minutes, gradually increase. Once they can stay calm for 30 minutes with you out of the room, you're ready for the next step.

Step 4 — Crating when you leave

Keep departures and arrivals low-key. Vary how long before you leave that you put the dog in the crate. Give them a stuffed Kong or safe toy. Always exercise the dog well before crating for a long period.

Troubleshooting

Too much time in the crate: Puppies under 6 months shouldn't stay crated more than 3–4 hours. If you work full days and the dog isn't fully crate-trained, use a small room with a baby gate instead.

Dog busted out of the crate: Don't punish — it's too late. The dog isn't crate-trained yet. Try the gated room approach while continuing crate training when you have time.

Whining at night: Try to determine if they need to potty or are just testing. Wait for a moment of quiet before responding. If they need to potty, take them out briefly then immediately back in — no playtime.

Separation anxiety: A crate won't solve separation anxiety and may cause injury if the dog tries to escape. Separation anxiety requires counter-conditioning and desensitization.

Additional Tips

• Play soft music or talk radio when you leave
• Leave a stuffed Kong or chew toy
• Leave something with your scent (unwashed t-shirt)
• Try a pheromone diffuser or diluted lavender oil
• Try placing the crate near a window, or make it more cave-like — different dogs prefer different environments

House soiling in adult dogs has many possible causes. Before trying behavioral solutions, rule out medical causes with the foster team.

Possible Causes

• Lack of house training — dogs from shelters, kennels, or outdoor living may have never been trained
• Incomplete training — may do well normally but soil when left alone too long or during routine changes
• Surface preference — some dogs learned to eliminate on a specific surface (paper, concrete) and prefer it
• Anxiety — soiling after major household changes; tends to happen on furniture or areas that smell strongly of people
• Fear of outside — new fosters may be too nervous to eliminate outside and hold it until back indoors
• Urine marking — claiming territory, responding to stress or new animals
• Separation anxiety — only soils when left alone
• Submissive/excitement urination — only during greetings, play, or scolding (not a house training issue — address differently)

Effective House Training Tips

• Feed on a consistent schedule and remove food between meals
• Take outside first thing in the morning, last thing at night, and before being left alone. Fully trained adult dogs should go out at least 4 times a day
• Know where your dog is at all times. Watch for pacing, whining, circling, sniffing, or leaving the room
• If you can't watch the dog, confine them to a crate or small room. The space should be just large enough to lie down comfortably — too large and they may eliminate in one corner
• Take the dog to the same spot each time — the smell prompts elimination
• Reward every successful outdoor elimination immediately with praise and treats
• If you catch them in the act indoors, clap once (don't yell) to startle and interrupt, then immediately take them outside to finish
• Clean all accidents with an enzymatic cleaner (Simple Solution, Nature's Miracle). Never use ammonia-based cleaners — urine contains ammonia and attracts dogs back to the same spot

Chewing is natural and healthy for dogs — the goal is teaching them what they can and cannot chew. For puppies under 6 months, see the Puppy Basics guide instead.

I. Exercise

"A tired dog is a good dog." Dogs often chew out of boredom. Physical exercise alone isn't always enough — a puzzle toy that takes 15 minutes can tire a dog out more than an hour in the yard. Provide both physical and mental stimulation. See the Canine Enrichment guide.

II. Management

Your dog can't chew what it can't reach. Keep shoes, kids' toys, remotes, and other chewables out of reach. Use a crate or dog-proof room when you can't supervise. Bitter Apple spray works for furniture and baseboards.

III. Redirect

If you catch your dog chewing something they shouldn't, interrupt with a neutral noise ("eh eh" or light clap). Offer an appropriate chew toy immediately. While they're learning, praise every time they pick up one of their own toys.

IV. Teach "Drop/Give"

If your dog picks up an item, don't chase or play tug — this makes the game more fun. Toss treats on the floor to exchange for your item. Add the word "drop" or "give" when they release it to build a reliable command.

V. Don't Punish After the Fact

If you find a chewed item even minutes later, it's too late. Animals associate punishment with what they're doing at the moment of correction. The "guilty look" is a submissive response to your body language — they may know you're upset but not why. Punishment at this point only causes other undesirable behaviors.

VI. Anxiety-Based Chewing

If your dog consistently chews your personal possessions when you're gone, it may be anxiety-related. Try making a "rope toy" from old unwashed socks or t-shirts — your scent is comforting. Don't give an old shoe, though, as dogs can't distinguish between that and the shoes you don't want chewed.

Work through each step for a couple of weeks before moving to the next. If Step 1 works, stop there. Never reward jumping — consistency from everyone in the household is essential. Always reward your dog for not jumping.

Step 1 — Remove All Attention

Engaging at all — even saying "no" or pushing them away — is still attention. When your dog starts to jump, side-step if possible, then walk away. Don't talk, don't touch, don't make eye contact. Cross your arms and turn your body if it helps. The moment your dog has all four paws on the floor, calmly greet them. If they jump again while you're petting, stop and walk away.

Step 2 — Teach an Incompatible Behavior

A dog can't jump if they're sitting. Give your dog a solid "sit." If your dog wants attention, they must sit for it. When they approach, ask for a sit before giving any attention. If they jump, side-step and wait, then ask for sit again.

Step 3 — Use a Leash

Attach a lightweight drag leash and let it trail. Step on the leash at a length that's slack when the dog is standing but provides resistance when they jump. Your dog gets an automatic gentle correction without you engaging. When back to "four on the floor," ask for a sit and reward.

Play the "Bounce" Game

Great with multiple people. Tether the dog to heavy furniture. Have people approach one at a time — if the dog keeps all four on the floor, they get to continue approaching and greet the dog. If the dog jumps, the person immediately turns and walks away. The dog quickly learns that jumping ends the fun.

Supervise all interactions until you fully trust the dog. Teach kids not to yell or run — this excites the dog. Use the Bounce game under supervision. If jumping on children persists, contact the Foster Team.

It's natural for dogs to use their mouths in play. Our job is to teach them that mouthing people is not acceptable. Work through each step for a couple of weeks before moving to the next. Remain calm throughout — getting more reactive often excites the dog further.

Step 1 — Redirect

Keep toys nearby in multiple areas. When your dog mouths you during play, don't react — make the body part go still and immediately offer a toy. "Activate" the toy by wiggling it to make it interesting. If they take it, praise enthusiastically. Repeat as many times as needed within a single play session.

Step 2 — Remove All Attention

If redirect isn't working or mouthing becomes more intense, calmly say "no" once then walk away. No further talking, no eye contact. The game has ended. When your dog follows you calmly or goes to a toy, re-engage with praise. With enough repetitions, they'll learn that being mouthy makes the fun stop.

Note: Yelling or yelping often excites the dog more — the opposite of what you want.

Step 3 — Time-Outs

Have your dog wear a drag leash. Pick a time-out word ("too bad," "time out"). When they mouth, say the word neutrally, pick up the leash, and briskly walk them to the time-out room (a bathroom or laundry room — not their crate or bed). Close them in for 3–5 minutes. When they're quiet and calm, let them out. Ignore them for 2 minutes, then resume normally.

If they repeat the behavior, immediately back to time-out. If they keep it up, increase the duration by a few minutes each time.

Supervise all interactions. Teach kids to "freeze" rather than yell or run if the dog mouths them. If your dog gets especially rowdy at certain times, burn energy before those interactions. Contact the Foster Team if you're struggling.

This guide covers dogs who are shy or fearful of humans — more likely to run away than to come toward you. For dogs who show defensive aggression (fight over flight), see the Defensive Behavior guide.

Essential Safety Measures — Non-Negotiable

• Martingale collar at all times — fitted snugly (only 2 fingers under). This collar tightens to prevent slipping out. Fearful dogs are escape artists.
• Drag leash at all times — a lightweight leash attached to the collar at all times, dragging on the ground. This gives you a point of contact without having to grab the dog. If they chew it, use a metal chain leash.
• Never off-leash outside — even in a fenced yard. Never leave a fearful dog unattended outside. Close doggy doors.
• Extra caution at all doors — a fearful dog has no bond with you yet and may bolt through any opening.

Body Language to Watch

• Tucked tail — fear and lack of safety
• Flat ears and wide eyes
• Baring teeth
• Freezing with a stiff, tense body
• Looking away or avoiding eye contact
• Flinching or moving away when approached

In the Home — First Days

Set up a crate inside an x-pen in a quiet room. Block all doors leading outside with baby gates. Make the space comfy with blankets, water, food, and toys. Then: ignore the dog.

This sounds counterintuitive but is the most important thing. Minimal talking, petting, and eye contact for the first few days. Let them decompress, observe you, and get used to new smells. The goal is for them to seek you out — not for you to chase connection.

Imagine waking up on a spaceship surrounded by aliens who keep touching you and making noises. You'd be screaming. But if they fed you and pretty much ignored you, eventually you might start to communicate with them.

Building a Relationship

• Sit far enough away that the dog isn't moving away from you. Sit with your side facing them — not your front. No eye contact.
• Gently toss high-value treats (beef hotdogs, freeze-dried meat — smellier is better) in their direction. Don't approach, just toss.
• Repeat daily, very slowly moving closer as they become comfortable
• Once they're comfortable eating from near your hand, begin basic training (sit, touch, eye contact) to build confidence
• Hand-feed meals daily — this builds the association that good things come from you
• After the first 3–5 days, avoid allowing them to hide constantly — set up their space in a living area so they observe daily life without direct pressure

For Potential Adopters

• Help adopters form an emotional connection — share milestones and quirks
• Do NOT place unnecessary restrictions (like "needs fenced yard" or "adults only") just because the dog is fearful — this limits adoption possibilities
• Provide adopters with a copy of this handout

If your dog gets loose: notify the Foster Team immediately at 956-330-3206

Slow and careful always produces the best results. Even friendly dogs can agitate each other with rude behavior.

Do

• Follow shelter instructions on how long to keep the new dog separated from other dogs
• Review canine body language before introducing
• Introduce one dog at a time
• Make sure your dog is wearing a collar and is on a leash held by an adult
• Introduce in an open space away from both dogs' homes (a few streets away is ideal)
• First walk the dogs at 10–20 feet apart. As they get used to each other, slowly move closer until both are calmly walking together
• If you're seeing relaxed bodies, loose wagging tails, open mouths, and play bows — let them sniff for 5–10 seconds, then call them apart. Short greetings keep interactions calm
• Keep leashes loose and move with the dogs as they greet. Don't let leashes tangle
• For playmates: let them play in a fenced area with valuable items (bones, toys, food) removed first. Drop leashes but keep them attached and dragging
• To break up a fight: use a loud noise (clap, whistle) or spray with water. Don't grab collars or pull leashes — high risk of accidental bite

Don't

• Let dogs rush up to each other — slow and controlled keeps everyone comfortable
• Yell at the dogs — this can cause tension
• Grab collars or pull on leashes to separate a fight

The time frame below is an estimate. How fast you can proceed depends on your individual dog. Take your time — rushing this is the most common reason introductions fail.

Week 1

Secure the cats in a separate room the dog cannot access. Cats have everything they need in that room for the entire first week. To give cats a break and let them smell the new dog, rotate free time — crate or secure the dog, then let the cats roam the house.

Weeks 2 and 3

Put the dog on leash. Bring the cat into the same room inside a large dog crate positioned across the room. If you have other dogs, they should be out of the room. Reward the dog for staying calm. Don't move closer yet. Reward any time the dog looks away from the cat. Only move closer after 3 sessions in a row of calm behavior at the current distance.

If the dog shows too much interest or aggressive behavior, consult a professional before proceeding.

Week 4

Start the same exercises but with the cat out of the crate and loose on the other side of the room. The dog stays on leash. The cat being able to move freely is a new trigger — reward heavily if the cat moves quickly or jumps and the dog stays calm.

Week 5

If the dog is doing well on leash, try them loose with a drag leash trailing. Supervise 100% of the time. Allow the cat to give appropriate warnings (hissing, swatting). The dog should respond by moving away — reward when they do. If they don't, guide them with the leash.

Defensive behavior is rooted in fear, anxiety, or lack of socialization. The dog feels threatened and reacts to protect themselves. This differs from offensive aggression, where a dog proactively shows aggression without provocation.

The "threat" that triggers a defensive reaction can be anything the individual dog perceives as scary or uncomfortable — even if it seems unreasonable to us. What matters is the dog's perception.

Common Sequence of Behaviors

1. Anxiety — yawning, lip licking, whining, looking around, pacing, drooling
2. Avoidance — avoiding eye contact, keeping distance, flinching when touched
3. Escape — looking for a way out. If they can't flee, fight-or-flight kicks in
4. Freeze — body goes stiff and still, hair on back may rise, eyes hard and staring
5. React — growling, barking, snapping, or biting

Address fear at steps 1 and 2 by giving the dog space. It's much harder to de-escalate from steps 4 and 5. Never push a dog beyond their comfort zone trying to force a relationship — this is what causes escalation.

What to Do When Your Dog Acts Defensively

• Stay calm. Don't scold or punish.
• Give space — stand up and move away. Avoid sudden movements.
• Note what triggered the reaction so you can avoid it next time
• Give them real time to calm down — don't check on them 2 minutes later

How to Win Over a Defensive Dog

• Give 2–4 weeks minimum to decompress — possibly longer
• Spend time in the same space without direct interaction. Read out loud, toss food their way — let them observe you without pressure
• After 3–5 days, avoid allowing them to hide. Set up their space in a living area with a barrier so they can observe without direct interaction
• Hand-feed meals daily — even tossing food piece by piece counts
• Once comfortable taking food, begin basic commands to build confidence
• Let the dog set the pace. Trying too hard can damage trust and have the opposite effect

Resource guarding is protecting an item the dog values — food, treats, toys, a favorite resting spot, or even a person's attention. Dogs may guard from people only, other animals only, or both.

What It Looks Like

• Freezing and hovering over the item
• Stopping eating/playing and tensing while looking sideways at you (whale eye)
• Showing teeth, growling, snapping, barking
• In some cases, leaving the item to charge toward the approaching person/animal

What to Do

Never try to take the item directly — this can trigger a worse reaction and reinforces the behavior.

Trade for treats — grab high-value treats (cheese, chicken, hot dog) and toss them to the dog from a distance where they're not actively guarding. Gradually toss them farther away from the item until you can lead the dog to another room. Then retrieve the item.

If guarding is toward another animal, call that animal away first to reduce stress on the guarding dog. Then trade for treats.

Management Strategies

• Feed in a crate, in a separate room, with the door closed
• Keep toys picked up when multiple animals are together
• Keep a drag leash on the dog for easy redirection
• Never let animals interact during meals — even if one finishes first

Puppies are fun, cute, and snuggly — and a lot of work. Make sure you're prepared before agreeing to foster a puppy.

• Puppies will not be housetrained and will need your help learning
• Puppies will cry at night and when left alone
• Puppies will play-bite and need guidance that this is not okay
• Puppies will chew things — provide plenty of toys to redirect
• Puppies should be contained at all times when not closely supervised — x-pen, playpen, or small gated area with floor covered in puppy pads
• Puppies eat at least 3 times per day, possibly more depending on age and size
• Puppies need help getting adopted — PVAS puts puppies on the website at 7 weeks. Under 10 weeks: 3+ great photos. 10 weeks+: photos and a short bio. You'll correspond with potential adopters and arrange meet-and-greets
• Puppies need strict vaccination schedules — dewormer at 2 and 4 weeks, shots every 2 weeks starting at 6 weeks
• Puppies cannot be placed on the ground in public areas where other dogs have been until fully vaccinated — carry them

Transferring puppies to different fosters affects their emotional and physical health due to stress and increased germ exposure. If you have any concerns, email the Foster Team before agreeing to take a puppy.

Questions: foster@pvastx.org

Symptoms

• Extreme lethargy — not getting up, unable to stand, not responding when touched
• Gasping for breath
• Whining or crying out
• Cold to the touch

Cause

FPS is caused by two things: hypothermia (too cold) and hypoglycemia (not enough blood sugar). You must combat both simultaneously or the kitten/puppy will die.

Treatment — Do Both Steps at the Same Time

Step 1 — Get Them Warm

Immediately wrap the puppy/kitten in a towel like a burrito, leaving only their face exposed. Their entire body, tail, ears, and paws should be inside the towel. Do not unwrap them for any reason — every second they're uncovered makes them colder.

Apply an external heat source around the burrito towel:

• Heating pad on LOW: Wrap it around the towel and secure it. Never let the heating pad touch them directly — burns can result
• No heating pad option A: Run your dryer full of towels. Swap in a fresh hot towel around the burrito every 5 minutes
• No heating pad option B: Fill 2 socks with rice, microwave for 3 minutes, place next to the burrito. Reheat one every 30 minutes

Step 2 — Raise Their Blood Sugar

Mix a few tablespoons of sugar in hot water — make it strong but still runny (not thick like syrup). Undiluted Karo syrup or agave nectar can be substituted. Using a syringe or your finger, give 3 drops every 3 minutes into the mouth. If they're not swallowing, get it on the tongue or gums. Set a timer — every 3 minutes, not 5 or 10.

Step 3 — Call the Foster Team

Call 956-330-3206. Don't leave the baby to make the call or forget the sugar every 3 minutes. The team will need to be informed and will likely prescribe an antibiotic, as gut bacteria changes can trigger FPS.

Important Notes on Vet Visits

We do NOT recommend rushing to the vet for this situation. The baby will continue to be cold and hypoglycemic in transit, in the waiting room, and while the vet determines what's wrong. Most won't survive long enough to be treated there. You — sitting right there with 100% focus on them — give them the best chance.

Recovery can sometimes take hours. Once they come out of it, contact the Foster Team to discuss what may have caused it and whether an exam is needed.

Even with perfect treatment, some won't make it. Try not to blame yourself. You gave them the best possible chance.

Emergency: 956-330-3206 (call or text) · foster@pvastx.org

Keep puppies away from dog parks, pet stores, and other high-dog-traffic areas until fully vaccinated (around 5 months).

Socialization

Meeting people: Ask friends to approach slowly and drop treats on the ground first. Never let anyone force attention on a nervous puppy. Wait until after full vaccination to take them to public places with light dog traffic.

Handling: Get your puppy used to touch — feet, ears, tail, brushing. Use treats so they associate handling with good things. This helps enormously at the vet and during nail trims.

Meeting dogs: Before full vaccination, arrange play dates with your friends' known dog-friendly, puppy-safe dogs. No dog parks. After full vaccination, supervised puppy classes with free play are great.

New sights and sounds: Start at low levels and increase gradually. If the puppy shows fear, back off and try again later. Always use treats to build positive associations.

House / Potty Training

• Schedule: Take out first thing in the morning, within 20 minutes of eating/drinking, after indoor play, after naps, and before bed
• Holding it: Puppies under 6 months typically can't hold it more than a few hours
• Reward every success outdoors with enthusiastic praise and treats. Make them think going outside is the best thing they've ever done
• Never scold for accidents indoors — they'll think you're scolding them for eliminating at all and start hiding to do it. Focus entirely on rewarding the right behavior
• Clean accidents with an enzyme cleaner (Simple Solution, Nature's Miracle) — dogs are attracted back to spots they can smell
• Avoid pee pads where possible as they can work against training — if you need them, keep them near the door

Crate Training

See the full Crate Training guide for detailed steps. For puppies: the crate should be just large enough to stand and turn around. Puppies don't want to eliminate next to their sleeping area — this is the foundation of house training.

Chewing

Chewing is natural and healthy. Redirect from inappropriate items to appropriate chew toys. If you catch them chewing something wrong, interrupt neutrally and immediately offer a toy. Keep items they shouldn't chew out of reach. Bitter Apple spray deters chewing on furniture and baseboards.

Mouthing / Play Biting

Puppies play with their mouths — your job is to teach them not to use their mouths on people. For mild mouthing, redirect to a toy. If not responding, stop play and walk away completely. With enough repetitions, they learn that being mouthy ends the fun. Never yell or yelp — this often excites them more.

Jumping Up

Don't reward jumping even when it seems cute — your puppy can't distinguish when it's allowed and when it isn't. Turn your attention off and walk away every time they jump. Only give attention when they have all four paws on the floor. Teach a "sit" as an incompatible behavior.

PVAS foster families can access GoodPup — the first week is free and includes an hour-long virtual session with a private trainer. After the trial, foster families get 20% off and a donation is made to PVAS in honor of your pup.

Usually mom will do most of the work, but newborn and young puppies are very delicate and need your watchful eye. Review the Fading Puppy Protocol in this guide so you're prepared.

Foster Team: 956-330-3206 (call/text, Mon–Sun 9am–7pm) · foster@pvastx.org

Supplies to Have on Hand

• Hand sanitizer — puppies under 3 weeks should not be handled by anyone from outside the home
• Newspapers or puppy pee pads
• Food scale (under 4 weeks) or baby scale (4 weeks+) to weigh puppies
• Bleach for laundry
• Baby wipes for cleaning small messes — ensure puppies don't get cold
• Heating pad (no auto-shutoff) on the LOW setting, covered with a towel — never place puppies directly on it
• Towels and blankets
• Thermometer
• High-quality puppy food (pate wet, kibble, formula if able) — this is also what mom eats while nursing

It's normal for mama dogs to be protective. Give her a space of her own away from other animals and frequent foot traffic. Leave a lightweight drag leash on her at all times for easy guidance. If she growls, that's a warning — respect it and give her space.

0–2 Weeks Old

• Puppies should be nursing vigorously. Observe at least once daily to make sure all are getting access
• Keep on a heat source at all times. Keep warm and away from drafts
• Mom will stimulate puppies to pee and poop by licking them. If she's not doing this, help by gently rubbing a warm, damp cotton ball on their bottoms after feeding
• Weigh once daily. If any pup loses weight 3 times in a row or drops 10% of body weight, contact the Foster Team immediately
• Ear canals open between days 5–8. Eyes open between days 8–14
• Minimize handling as much as possible

2–4 Weeks Old

• Pups can now urinate and defecate on their own
• At 2 weeks, puppies need dewormer — email the Foster Team with weights to have it prepared
• Continue daily weighing. Puppies can go downhill very quickly within 24 hours
• At 3 weeks, puppies begin cleaning themselves — avoid bathing them (6 weeks minimum)
• Mom begins spending more time outside the nest
• Begin gentle socialization — increase handling carefully and expose to non-frightening stimuli

4–8+ Weeks Old

• At 4–5 weeks: begin weaning with gruel (watered-down canned pate food, pate style not chunky, mixed to a thin paste). PVAS recommends Esbilac or Royal Canin Puppy Mousse. Weaning is a gradual process over several weeks
• At 6 weeks: puppies have first vet visit (microchip, Bordetella, first DAPP shot). Puppies must stay outside the clinic — call when you arrive
• At 6 weeks: mom is made available for adoption
• At 7 weeks: puppies go on the website. PVAS needs 3+ great photos per puppy
• At 10 weeks: surgery date is assigned for spay/neuter
• Begin housebreaking at 4 weeks using newspapers or pads in a corner

Health Monitoring Throughout

Dehydration: Pinch a little skin on the pup's back — it should spring back immediately. Always ensure access to clean water.

Hypoglycemia: Signs include wobbliness, listlessness, seizures. Puppies can go hypoglycemic if they miss even one meal. Contact the team if a puppy has decreased appetite.

Anemia: Check gum color — should be salmon pink. White or gray gums are an emergency. Most often caused by fleas or intestinal worms in puppies.

Parvovirus: Key to survival is early detection. Signs: loss of appetite, vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy. Contact the Foster Team immediately.

Meatball test: A healthy puppy will almost always eat a meatball of canned food. If they refuse, email the Foster Team.

Questions: foster@pvastx.org · 956-330-3206

Raising puppies without a mom requires around-the-clock feeding and care — much like a human baby. They are susceptible to Fading Puppy Syndrome, so being extremely vigilant is essential. Review the Fading Puppy Protocol in this guide.

Business hours (Mon–Sun, 9am–7pm): 956-330-3206 · Outside hours: voicemail/text + foster@pvastx.org

Additional Supplies Needed (Beyond With-Mom List)

• Esbilac or GNC formula — preferred brands. Mix at a 1:2 ratio regardless of package instructions. Formula should be warm but not hot
• Human baby bottles, slow-flow
• Stuffed animal for the puppy to cuddle

0–2 Weeks — Feeding Schedule

Feed at least every 3 hours, 24 hours a day — even if you have to wake them up. After each feeding, gently stimulate them to pee and poop with a warm, damp cotton ball on their bottom. They cannot do this on their own yet. Keep on a heat source at all times.

2–4 Weeks

Continue every 3 hours, but by 3–4 weeks can go to every 4 hours, and by 4 weeks can go 4–6 hours overnight. At 2 weeks, dewormer is needed — call the clinic at least 1 hour before arrival (during business hours) with the foster's name, ID, and weight. Stay in your car on arrival and call the Foster Team for pickup instructions.

4–8+ Weeks — Weaning

Same process as the With-Mom guide. Begin introducing gruel at 4–5 weeks. Bottle feed as needed toprevent hunger while they're learning. Feed gruel 4x/day at 5–6 weeks. By 6–7 weeks they should be eating dry food well. Offer food at least 3–4 times daily.

Health Monitoring

Same monitoring as the With-Mom guide — dehydration, hypoglycemia, anemia, parvovirus, and meatball test all apply. See that guide for details.

Socialization note: Without a mom to model behavior, increase human handling gradually. Expose them to non-frightening sounds and sights. Puppies without vaccinations should not meet anyone from outside the household.

Questions: foster@pvastx.org · 956-330-3206